The capital of the country is one of the most beautiful cities in Europe. It is often referred to as the 'Athens of the North' due to its fine, Palladian architecture and general air of education and refinement. Having said that, over more recent years 'rather stuffy' Edinburgh was jarred from its smug complacency after resting long on its world-renowned reputation. The monopoly over the Scottish cultural crown was cheekily hijacked during the 1980s and it now remains an open issue who best represents the country's cultural heart.

The topography of the town is remarkable with several elevations breaking the city's slate-grey, chimney-potted expanse. Robert Louis Stevenson declared, "No situation could be more commanding for the head of a kingdom and none better chosen for better prospects".

Edinburgh, like most of the Lothians, is set on the wide plain of the River Forth with volcanic left-overs such as Castle Rock and Arthur's Seat being the most prominent natural heights. Around these hills 'Auld Reekie', as it was known before the days of smokeless fuel, grew and prospered.

For exploration, the city is best divided into three sections, the Old Town, the New Town and the outskirts. Each section would need at least a day to best appreciate, so a minimum of three days should be allowed.

The Old and New Town are essentially a walking proposition with most places of consequence within easy distance of one another. Parking a car anywhere near the city centre is very difficult but public transport is effective both into the centre and to outlying parts.

Edinburgh's history seems to surround its central fortification and this is the point where much of the earliest archaeological evidence has been uncovered. The lofty lump supporting Edinburgh Castle is the residue of a volcanic plug that resisted the forces of a huge glacier pushing eastward along what is now the Forth Valley. The strategic position of Castle Rock was long recognised by the Romans and their main adversaries, the Pictish tribes, as well as the powers that followed them.

There is only one tenable approach to Edinburgh Castle via the eastward sloping Royal Mile and would-be attackers were forced to consider this. In 1313 some resolute assailants under the administration of Robert the Bruce scaled Castle Rock's formidable northern aspect and ramparts to retake the castle from the English. They then dismantled it and Bruce later granted the town a royal charter in 1329 as well as jurisdiction over the port of Leith which lead to greater trading opportunities and wealth. Rebuilt in 1356, the castle became not only a fortress but also a royal palace.

A defensive wall was erected around the area east of the castle in 1456 roughly defining the area we now know as the Old Town. Through the Renaissance period the small city flourished in a stable era until Scotland's defeat at the Battle of Flodden in 1513. A second wall, the Flodden Wall, was hurriedly thrown up after this defeat which was followed by a time of great instability culminating in the sacking of the town by the forces of Henry VIII.

On her return to Scotland, Mary set up court in Edinburgh's Holyrood Palace. In 1603 her son, James VI, with the Union of the Crowns, inherited the English throne and moved his Scottish court to London. In some ways this was the end of the Scottish monarchy as, despite his promises, James only returned to his native land once.

The last significant assault on Edinburgh Castle came in 1745 when the Jacobite forces of Bonnie Prince Charlie once again wrested it, without much resistance, from English hands. The period of the Enlightenment continued and thrived following the upheavals and defeat of the Jacobite Rebellion and throughout the period of peace that followed. New ideas in science, philosophy and literature flourished without the inhibiting presence of nobility. Philosophers and writers such as David Hume, Adam Smith, Allan Ramsay, and even Robert Burns were products of this era. James Watt was inspired to invent the steam engine around this time.

Entrance to the castle is made at the top of the Royal Mile and into the Esplanade, a wide parade ground that presents splendid views north over the city and south to the Pentland Hills about 8 miles (13km) away. The imposing building you see on the south side is George Herriott's School, built in the mid-seventeenth century as an orphanage and now a private school. During the summer the Esplanade is prepared for nightly pageants held during the Military Tattoo. The castle entrance is guarded by members of the Highland Regiment, the last draw-bridge to be built in Scotland as well as the imposing statues of Robert the Bruce and William Wallace. There are some six gates between the entrance and the Argyle and Mills Batteries designed to keep the English out but now, for a cost, they are made most welcome. Every day at 1pm (13.00 hours), a salute is fired from the upper battery.

Many visitors come to Edinburgh specifically for the Edinburgh International Festival held for 3 weeks every year in August when the town is taken over by thespians of every sort who put on more than 13,000 performances per festival. The Festival was started in 1947 to help shake off the gloom of the post war years and with several names of international stature supporting it, the new festival got off to a good start. The Fringe started at the same time and is now the world's largest arts festival with over 500 performances each day supported by 450 companies. During this time the Military Tattoo is held every night in the Castle Esplanade. A more recent development to try and bridge the tourist gap around the Christmas holiday is 'Edinburgh's Hogmanay' with several attractions culminating in the traditional Edinburgh gathering around the Tron Church on the Mile to bring in New Year.

Edinburgh has a particularly lively pub scene around the centre. Hostelries of interesting historical and architectural significance are included in several trails from the Grassmarket to Rose Street. Pubs have replaced the old coffee-houses of Edinburgh's past and are an important element of local culture. Some worth visiting for their atmosphere would be The Last Drop and the Preservation Hall around the Grassmarket, Deacon Brodie's Tavern in Bank Street at the corner with the Royal Mile and the Auld Toll Bar just beyond the Toll Cross in Bruntsfield Place. Check out the Rose Street Brewery also, one of the many public houses along this colourful back street.

The areas just beyond the Old and New Towns are peppered with good places to escape from the crowds. Beneath the south side of the castle is the rectangular Grassmarket, once an agricultural marketplace but now dominated by car parking along with some good pubs, restaurants and interesting shops. Following Castle Wynd Steps or Victoria Street off George IV Bridge can reach it. Here you find a host of little antique or curiosity shops along with the famous Brush Shop, one of the least changed stores in Edinburgh since the 1950s selling brushes of all shapes, balls of string and other household tackle.

Tourist Attractions
Edinburgh Dungeon
Edinburgh Castle
Arthur's Seat
Mary King's Close
Camera Obscura & Outlook Tower
Britannia
Palace of Holyrood House
Open-top bus
Gladstone's Land
Scott Monument

Edinburgh Hotels

Edinburgh Hotel

Hotels have been placed into the different catagories according to the price of the room, with breakfast – which will most probably be of a simple continental type. Room prices given include VAT and are the year-round rate. Many hotels, particularly the biggest, are owned by large hotel groups. The 'Chains' category is reserved for those hotel chains that preserve their own atmosphere wherever they are in the world. Parking in Edinburgh can be very difficult, particularly in the centre of town and in residential areas. If you are travelling by car, you're advised to confirm with your hotel that you will be able to find a parking space close by, especially if the parking is listed below as 'on street'. Encouragingly, many hotels have disabled rooms and access.

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Hotels in Edinburgh

Restaurants in Edinburgh

While you won't be disappointed if you've come to try out haggis, there are plenty of cuisines from all corners of the planet to keep your tastebuds happy.

As Scotland tentatively emerged from the recession of the early '90s, Edinburgh began to experience something of a restaurant boom. Aided by the city's growing reputation as a year-round festival venue, new ventures of every conceivable type have sprung up in the years since.

Existing restaurateurs predictably complain that there are too many restaurants and that some of the newcomers are riding on the back of a year-round tourist trade. There is some truth in this and if the bubble bursts then something of a cull is on the cards. But right now the city's restaurant scene is buoyant and the good places heavily outnumber the indifferent, while the truly foul are few and far between. Every point on the globe from Japan to California is represented in some form in Edinburgh's restaurants and, like any other British city, there are plenty of good Chinese, Indian and Italian places. As forScottish restaurants, these are a bit more difficult to define. Few of the places listed in the Scottish section of this chapter serve dishes that definitively belong to a Caledonian culinary tradition. Instead, they tend to use almost exclusively Scottish produce and prepare, season and serve it according to very wide-ranging influences. The food itself may be from the Highlands or the waters of the West Coast but it is likely to be Scottish with a nod to French, Spanish, North African or Pacific Rim ideas. In other words, they may serve haggis but it'll be wrapped in Greek filo pastry and served with a Chinese hoisin sauce on a bed of Irish champ. Generally, though by no means exclusively, it is in these restaurants that you're most likely to experience the finest meals. During the Festival season (August to early September) many restaurants are open much later than indicated in the year-round times; these extended hours can change from year to year, so it's best to phone first to check.


Practicalities

Few places have strict dress codes these days; as a general rule, the pricier the joint, the smarter the clientele. It's only common sense that you don't turn up to Rhodes & Co wearing a string vest; but if you're unsure call ahead first.

It's standard practice to pay 10 per cent on top of the bill for service. Some restaurants will add this automatically (while insisting that it is 'optional'; so if service wasn't up to scratch you should deduct the charge). Be wary of places that include service on the bill and then leave the space for a gratuity empty on your credit card slip. The average prices below are for a starter and a main course, excluding drinks and service, for one person.

 

Edinburgh restaurant guide

 

Hotels in other major cities in Scotland


Glasgow

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